Kaikoura to Nelson

We left Kaikoura on Nov 17th and had a lovely ride back up toward Picton and through towns that made us think of Canada; Blenheim, Collingwood, Hope, Nelson and Richmond. Very pretty places and a beautiful day!

We stayed at a campground in Richmond and then the monsoon arrived. We decided to do laundry (what else do you do on a rainy day I ask?) and hang out and relax. The rain got worse, the wind picked up and we were reminded of our earlier experience when we couldn't pass through the mountains. At least we were in a lovely campground this time, with many neighbours (something comforting in that).

Our plan was an early night and up bright and early to travel back to Nelson (15 km) for the farmer's market Saturday morning, pick up a few things then move on to Motueka and Abel Tasman National Park. By the time we went to bed (don't ask...it was soooo early!), the wind had diminished however the rain was relentless. One thing we know for certain, all seals on the van work and not a drop entered our little nest.

I was awakened in the wee hours with a peculiar sensation. Didn't know what it was however the wind had picked up and was flailing the van so it felt pretty vulnerable. It was difficult to get back to sleep in these conditions however eventually I did indeed get a few more hours.

When we arose at 6 a.m., I turned on the radio (by the way, we haven't listened to ANY radio while here) and discovered that there had been an earthquake (5.9) just east of Picton....then the wind began to roar.

We went to the market and as we have found everywhere on the islands, people engaged us in conversation. One woman who lives on a farm nearby told me that she was awakened at 3 a.m. with the trembling of the ground, then the winds started. I assume that is what awakened me as well. Not to worry however; apparently N.Z. gets hit by up to 1700 earthquakes per year! Most of them are insignificant .....whatever "insignificant" is since I wouldn't classify a 5.9 as insignificant. Apparently Wellington was hit with one the day before and it was felt by everyone.

The market was fabulous! It is whitebait season (small transparent fish which is apparently immature smelt) so Bob and I decided to have a sandwich at one of the stalls. They mix the whole fishies in egg, a bit of flour and salt and fry them at high temps in oil. Then they plant it on a piece of bread so you are eating an open-faced sandwich. My, my, what a delicious treat....if you didn't look at their wee eyes....we loved it!

We picked up loads of veg and fruit and while Bob was gazing at something he heard someone say "hello", turned around and there was a couple we had met on an Auckland bus our second day there. They are from Kelowna and we'd enjoyed a great chat with them while touring Auckland. Here they were in Richmond and soon returning to Canada. It was wonderful seeing them!

With fresh supplies we headed off to Motueka. It was once again a beautiful day! The weather here changes so quickly that it is quite amazing. It was a fairly short drive and once we settled into the park, we walked through town and decided to eat dinner out. (Darla, stop reading for the next paragraph please).

Bob has been craving lamb roast ever since we've been here and we looked at the menu's at all the restaurants and couldn't find lamb .....however, the signboard outside one restaurant said the roast special was "hoggit". We entered to determine what exactly "hoggit" is. Turns out it's not wee lamb, it's a bit older lamb but not an ancient beast which is "mutton". Bob got his roast lamb which he declared delicious and I had vegetarian lasagna.

(Start reading again Darla...)

November 19th, we awakened very early, excited by our daytime plans. We had booked a kayaking/hiking trip through Abel Tasman.

There were only 8 of us in our group (including the guide) and after our orientation and safety instruction, our guide Wade, instructed us how to load our double sea kayaks on the carrier then we were loaded onto a wagon and pulled by tractor to the beach. It was a magnificent day and we set off with me as rudder person and Bob in front giving orders (what's new in that?). Wade had said that it's best that the person who likes to "give instruction" should sit in front. Occasionally I would get distracted and stray toward the rocks however I even managed to keep us straight going into and backing out of a cave without damaging us or the kayak. Not bad I'd say!

We kayaked for a few hours then landed on a beach where the rest of our team took off to walk back to Motueka while Wade cooked Bob and me an awesome lunch of green mussels, shishkabob and accompanied by salad, fruit and awesome desserts. We were instructed to lounge around while Wade cleaned everything up then he took us on an instructional hike into the rainforest. He pointed out leaves that we could chew if in pain and would take us to another dimension, the silver fern that is their national emblem and that of the "All Blacks" (oh, didn't I mention the #1 passion in N.Z.? Even we are huge fans of this rugby team!). It is also what the Maori used for many purposes, including pointing the way for others to follow through the forest. He pointed out tiny hairs on a tree and explained that an insect bores into the tree and leaves behind a hair (excrement) and from this hair drips what they call honeydew. We tasted a tiny, tiny drop and it is very sweet, just like honey. After around 40 minutes of steep climbing, Wade left us to hike to a place called Anchorage Bay. We could see it in the distance and once we got there found it to be a magical place. Kayakers were coming in the bay and landing and it is here where campers can stay in co-ed buildings; 20 per bed (looks like bunks however is really two platforms one above the other where thin mattresses are provided ....side by side). Bob laughed and said "can you imagine me with my snoring in that situation with 19 other people?" I replied "IF you made it through the night!" No doubt in my mind that he wouldn't make it to his 60th birthday!

It was in this lovely place that we were to be picked up by water taxi and returned to our camper. Wade told us it would be a black water taxi with the name "Vigor" on the side. Well! Let us tell you about our next little adventure! Vigor arrived and I must say it was probably designed around the time of Noah's ark! It was old however it was made of steel (Yuri, you'd love it!) and seemed strong enough. It appeared as if it would seat about 10 people comfortably. Wrong, wrong, wrong!! We were the first to board then we drove to another bay where we picked up at least 16 other kayakers. The seats were designed for hobbits I figure, not North American's! Bob and I are not particularly large however both our arses were hanging off the edge. If there was once comforting thing in this, it was the life vests which were the newest you can buy, are slim and look like suspenders. The cynic in me says that would be because there wouldn't be room for regular life vests on our bodies, sitting on the incredibly small seats!

Soooooooo off we go at sound barrier breaking speeds, across this huge expanse of water. Brent (our lovely captain who looked all of 10 yrs old) told us that the total trip would take about 40 minutes. We flew by poor kayakers whose faces reflected abject terror, other water taxi's, deadheads and other "stuff" until we reached Motueka safely. You just won't believe what happened next! Brent drifted off shore for a bit and was scanning the beach. He then explained that he was waiting for the trailer and tractor to come and get us....no, we were NOT to disembark....the tractor backed the trailer right into the ocean, Brent drove the boat up onto the trailer and that is how we returned to camp.....driving down the flippin' road past cars and buses, right into the parking lot of the kayaking company. So efficient and so hilarious. ALL of us still wearing our life vests and looking like total freaks out of the water riding on a boat, on a trailer!
Only in New Zealand I reckon!

What a day!

November 20th: We left Motueka behind us and headed down the west coast of South Island; destination Franz Josef Glacier. It was a long day of driving for Bob (no, I'm still not driving!) so we broke it up by visiting the jade capital of the country....Hockitika. Another beautiful drive and a lovely day. Hockitika is a sweet town right on the Tasman Sea. We visited all the jade factories in town and watched craftmen/women at work. Awesome and very expensive although not as expensive as it would be at home! We had lunch then headed out on the highway once again.

We have encountered many one lane bridges while here and being as civilized as they are, you are instructed when to "give way" and when you have the right of way. The bridge we encountered this day was one we had not seen before. It was quite a long bridge and the surface is shared by vehicles and TRAINS! No stop lights! Nothing to indicate WHEN exactly the next train would be arriving! We have had more laughs here than anywhere else on our travels.

We arrived here at Franz Josef around 4 pm yesterday and could see one of the glaciers glistening in the sunshine.

Today we are taking a helicopter up to the glacier, it will land and we will hike for a couple of hours then will be lifted off and brought back down. Are we excited? You bet!

Film at 11!!

Speaking of film....I apologize for not loading more pics as yet. I do plan to get it done, probably in one blog.....when I get the time and the appropriate computer.

Thanks again everyone for writing and commenting! It is just wonderful to hear from all of you.
We miss you and love you!
To Jaki (Ray and Jan's niece) in Auckland, a special thanks for writing! Unfortunately we will not be back in Auckland but do thank you for connecting with us. Ray and Jan...thanks for passing on the blog.

Be well!