This is probably the most beautiful country on the planet. It is hard to believe that New Zealand is only 268,680 square km because the country is so diverse that it seems almost surreal. Where else could you travel only a few hundred kms and be in the Alps on a glacier, then swimming with dolphins, then observing yellow-eyed penquins waddle up pristine cream coloured beaches, then be in wine country, then kayaking on turquoise water? The weather is temperate, much like British Columbia and although we experienced about 8 days of rain total, this is not the norm. South Island has had the harshest spring and early summer in 15 years.
We did not see one homeless person in the month we were here.
Garbage was not evident anywhere, including the cities. Very few gum blobs were seen on the streets. The countryside was pristine and the air seemed pure.
Is there anything then that concerns Kiwi's? Oh yes!
Firstly, they need to celebrate their major achievements which include:
Being nuclear free; establishment of the first marine reserves; protection of native forests; free of genetic engineering (although this week, the paper reported that GE corn seed was "inadvertently" planted by farmers here on south island in October. It will be confiscated and the farmers compensated.) The government recently lifted the ban on GE seed however the people are emphatically resisting the introduction of the seed. Organic crops are being grown everywhere and fair trade products are to be found on shelves in almost every store and are present in the farmer's markets.
However.....what concerns Kiwi's is:
The ozone layer is so depleted here that both N.Z. and Australia are among the top countries with casualties of skin cancer in the world. Their environmental record is dismal; among the worst performing countries (along with Canada) on the planet. We were reminded almost daily to wear 30+ UV protection. Most Kiwi's we spoke with actually believed that Canada had signed the Kyoto Accord and that we were doing more than they. They were saddened to learn that we are doing little to clean up our act.
According to the Minister of the Environment here, the average Kiwi produces more garbage than the average American....even though wherever we travelled, we saw recycling depots everywhere. He also said that N.Z.'s reliance on fertilisers, pesticides and herbicides needs to be addressed and the overgrazing, logging and excessive runoff from farms into streams and lakes is doing horrendous damage to the country.
The beautiful flightless Kiwi bird is fighting for it's existence due to feral cats, dogs and stoats that prey on it and are it's worst enemy. Protective agencies are breeding Kiwi's in enclosures to build up the numbers.
The possum, introduced by the Aussies many years ago (and something they've never been forgiven for) now number 70+ million and are stripping millions of trees of their foliage. The conservation authority is trying to reduce the numbers however it is a losing battle.
An algae, commonly referred to "rock snot" is killing fish and plant life in and beside the rivers and streams. It somehow came from the U.S. and the paper yesterday reported that it has made it into the rivers around Milford Sound. Very, very sad.
As diligent as Customs and Immigration is at checking bags, boots and camping equipment when visitors enter the country, all kinds of critters are here and threatening the environment, just as they are in Canada and other countries.
Crime: We felt incredibly safe here and at the beginning, contemplated camping by a stream, the ocean or waterfall overnight. Our warning came on our second day, given by a conservation ranger who told us not to park our vehicle in the parks parking lots after 5 p.m because people hid in the ditches and broke in as travellers went for hikes. Robberies of camper vans are frequent and we were reminded constantly to lock all windows and doors.
Although the following incident was very rare, it caused all travellers to be diligent and aware. A young couple visiting from Holland in the second week we were here, camped by a waterfall and were preparing for bed when two men broke into their van, abducted and terrorized them for several hours. The abductors were caught however the victims will never recover from the trauma. It was brutal and it was not worth it. Registered campgrounds is the only way to travel.
N.Z. has a population of just under 4.5 million people, 39 million sheep and 1 million cows.
The murder rate so far this year (for people, not the animals) is in the mid-60's. Sadly, half of this number is due to domestic violence.
How do Kiwi's feel about Canadians?
We were always asked where we were from and when they learned it was Canada, they all said that they feel we have a kinship. They know or have heard that our country, although much larger, is very similar; that the people are very much like them and that we live in the shadow of a more powerful neighbour, just as they do. We were told again and again that Canadians are always very welcome here and those who have visited Canada, told us how much they love our country.
We feel very close to this land and it's people. If there was ever a country we would wish to revisit, it is this one and we would strongly recommend you add it to your list as well.
All the best!
Sharon and Bob
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