Montevideo to Punta Bellena to Colonia Del Sacramento

The evening prior to our departure up the coast, we had dinner with a beautiful couple, Maria and her new husband Carlos, at a restaurant of their choosing. We were connected with Maria through a former client (and now friend) of mine from Royal Trust and RBC-DS days, Linda Banks. We had lunch prior to Christmas and she reminded me that her work with Sabre (airline booking systems) took her to Montevideo on a regular basis. She offered to introduce us to Maria and off we went. We had several connections in Uruguay and between Maria and our other connection, who will read about in a minute, we had more detailed info than we could have imagined. We had invited Maria and Carlos to dinner, to celebrate their recent wedding and to thank them for their kindness. One of the more interesting characteristics of South Americans is that they dine very late in the evening. Maria told us that she would be home from work at 8 pm and that they would pick us up at 9 pm. We had a nap (as you can only imagine, since Bob and I normally go to bed at 9:30!) and at 8:45 pm, received a call from Maria, telling us that Carlos (who is a real estate lawyer) was delayed and that they would pick us up around 9:15. They arrived at 9:30, full of energy and drove us to a suburb (at breakneck speeds) where they live and to a restaurant that specializes in bbq. This is huge in Uruguay since the largest part of the economy is based on beef export.

Below:Maria and Carlos

I ordered what was recommended by Maria and Bob ordered ribs and when the meal arrived, I felt almost defeated before I began. The portions were huge! I have a very healthy appetite (as our fellow travellers will give testament to) and yet, the hour and the size simply overwhelmed me. Bob had 3 racks of ribs and managed 1 1/2 total while I age a third of my dinner. Delicious and simply too much.

We learned a lot about the history of Uruguay, Maria's European ancestry and Carlos' Greek background and how they landed in the country. Their honesty in the both the good and the bad in the history of their country was touching. We had such a great time with them.

The next morning we caught a bus from downtown to Punta Bellina on the coast. This is just south of Punta de Esta, the Miami Beach of Uruguay. We were met by the second couple we had never met before.....parents of Darla and Peter's friend Nicholas. They are ex-pats and lived for many years in Brazil where Michael ran the South American division of IFF (International Flavors and Fragrances). Marguerita has South American blood and was raised in Montreal where she met and married Michael. They are now living mostly in Uruguay and renovating a 100 year old general store in a village 20 minutes from the coast. They hired local construction workers from the village and are being rewarded with loyalty and the most beautiful result. We can see where they are going with the project, which started last April and which will be, when completed, a fabulous posada (inn or B&B), set among the beautiful hills. Margie volunteer teaches English at the village school...so perfect a role for this woman. I cannot begin to write about her volunteer work in South America. She is an incredible force.

The house they are currently renting is owned by a nautical freak! The door to our suite was either from a submarine or a ship. Everywhere there are windows, wood and collectibles from the marine world. Interesting!!!

Below: Michael and Marguerita; the view from our room; the window at the end of our tub; the house

They asked us if we would join them in celebrating the birthday of one of their construction workers. Margie was supplying all of the food with the exception of the meat. That was raised and being supplied by the birthday boy himself. We were told that the party would be in the house they are reno'ing and that it would be a simple feast, just as the workers would like it to be. They are country people who live a simple lifestyle and Margie told us that she didn't want us freaked out by the way the meat was being cooked. DEAD ANIMAL ALERT TO THE SENSITIVE READERS!!!!!!!!!!! (I'll assume we've lost Darla for a bit). We were certainly excited by the opportunity to meet the workers and their families and also to get a look at the building.

There were around 20 people gathered at the party on the edge of the village. The men were cooking the meat and the women and children arrived a bit later. We set up the tables and made benches out of boards and stone. Michael had taken a few plastic chairs which we gave to the villagers. Every single person who filed into the "dining room" kissed us on the cheek and greeted us kindly. We really wish that we could converse in Spanish however made words and gestures suffice. The children were wonderful and Bruno (the boy in the green and white striped shirt) practiced his English with Bob and me. It was a perfect evening in the hills, with breezes blowing through the open unfinished windows.

Above: All of the stones you see in the structure were recovered from the original building. A young stonemason from the village is doing all the work and every room in the house (5 bedrooms plus dining room, library, kitchen, living rooms (there will be two) plus the courtyard, will all have at least one wall of stone.

Margie arranged an incredible price on a rental car for us and told us that if, at any time we are uncomfortable with accommodations on the coast, we are to stay with them. Fantastic people!

The next morning we left them and headed back to Montevideo and beyone, 180 kms west to the most beautiful town of Colonia Del Sacramento. Colonia was founded in 1680 and sits on the east bank of Rio de la Plata River, only 50 km from Buenos Aires by ferry. It's Barrio Historico, a nucleus of narrow cobbled streets, is a Unesco World Heritage site and sits on a peninsula surrounded by the river. Our little posada (inn) was only 3 streets from the Barrio. All the streets in the older section of town are lined with fantastic sycamore trees.

Car junkies, get ready for some eye candy! This place is filled with some great specimens.

Below; Our sweet little posada; ...and parked right outside....

Below: You can even have dinner in this old baby, at a restaurant called "El Drugstore"...I kid you not!

Below: The remains of the old fort; remains of the old lighthouse contrasted with the new

Below; Other beautiful sights

The best waiter in Colonia! He told us that he has over 90 hats that he wears throughout his shift, every one has been given to him as a gift. He sings some crazy song in a powerful baritone and everyone loves him...including us!